The Truth about Gel Cast: Why Crunchy Curls are Not Bad

Curl Academy

The Truth about Gel Cast: Why Crunchy Curls are Not Bad

Nobody likes crunchy curls, but that's the key to prevent frizz & help your style last. Did you know that feeling is only temporary?

The Truth about Gel Cast: Why Crunchy Curls are Not Bad

by Gena Marie | 9 minutes read

Do you struggle with hard, crunchy curls? That’s called a gel cast. It’s important to get a strong hold in your routine because it helps prevent frizz and makes your style last longer. However, a gel cast can result in a stiff, crunchy “wet look” that many people try to avoid. So, is it possible to get soft, full, bouncy curls while maintaining definition and hold?

What Is a Gel Cast?

A gel cast is the firm, slightly crunchy layer that forms around your curls as the gel dries. The time it takes to form depends on how quickly your hair dries, typically around 15 to 45 minutes when diffusing and one hour or more when air-drying. Drying time can vary depending on factors such as hair density, porosity, and the amount of product applied.

Styling products such as gels contain holding ingredients that create a film on the hair, binding the strands together and holding them in place. They can also contain moisturizing ingredients to prevent a dry, brittle feeling. Gels can provide different levels of hold, from very soft and flexible to super-strong and stiff. The stronger the hold, the stronger the gel cast will be, and the longer your hairstyle will last with more frizz control.

The Benefits of a Gel Cast

A gel cast provides benefits for hair health, curl definition, and overall appearance.

For Hair Health

  • Creates a temporary protective barrier around the curls as they dry.
  • Helps lock in moisture and protect against humidity.
  • Reduces frizz and minimizes disruption to the curl pattern during the drying process.

For Curl Definition and Style

  • Helps curls, waves, and coils maintain their shape as they dry.
  • Enhances definition and encourages curl clumping.
  • Provides longer-lasting hold and helps styles last between wash days.
  • Helps reduce flyaways for a smoother finish.

For Appearance

  • Creates a more defined, uniform curl pattern.
  • Helps curls look smoother and less frizzy.
  • Once scrunched out, leaves curls looking soft, bouncy, and well-defined.

Having that cast on your hair helps your curls hold their pattern, structure, and definition for a longer-lasting style. If you live in a humid environment or it’s a very windy day, leaving the gel cast in after styling will protect your curls from frizz. A cast also helps lock in moisture and prevent your hair from drying out throughout the week. Most importantly, a gel cast helps prevent frizz from forming and tame flyaways. It’s particularly important while drying your hair because it sets your curls, waves, or coils in place and keeps them defined until the next wash.

How to Get a Gel Cast for Curly Hair

Get a gel cast by following these steps:

  1. Start with clean, wet hair and apply your leave-in conditioner.
  2. Apply a gel that forms a cast section by section using the raking method, ensuring even coverage.
  3. Select your preferred styling method, such as scrunching, finger curling, or shingling, to encourage curl formation.
  4. Allow your hair to dry completely, either by air-drying or diffusing. As the gel dries, a cast will naturally form.
  5. Avoid touching or manipulating your curls while they dry, as this can create frizz and disrupt the cast.
  6. Once your hair is fully dry, gently scrunch out the cast to reveal soft, defined curls.

What If I Don’t Like the Crunchy Gel Cast Look?

The most important thing to understand about a gel cast is that it’s temporary. You don’t have to go around with crunchy curls if that’s not your preference. If you leave the cast in after drying your hair, your style will last longer and be more protected from the environment, gradually softening throughout the day. If you prefer soft curls from the beginning, you can break the gel cast as soon as your hair is fully dry.

This will make your curls soft and bouncy while keeping them defined.

Scrunching out a gel cast

Does a Gel Cast Damage Hair?

A gel cast does not damage the hair. Instead, it creates a temporary protective barrier around the curls as they dry, helping to reduce frizz, maintain definition, and protect against humidity.

A gel cast can be achieved on all curl types and textures. The key is choosing a gel styler that suits your hair texture and styling needs. For example, if you have fine- to medium-textured hair, the Hydro Style Flexi Jelly is a great option because it creates a cast without weighing the hair down. For medium to coarse textures, the Curl Defining Styling Soufflé or In-Shower Style Fixer may be better suited, providing stronger hold and longer-lasting definition.

How Do You Break a Gel Cast?

There are a few methods you can use to break your gel cast if you prefer a softer look. You can release all of the crunch or scrunch out only part of it to maintain some hold and stronger frizz protection.

The simplest method is to use dry hands to gently scrunch out your curls after you’ve styled and dried your hair.

If you rub a hair oil between your hands before scrunching, it will help soften the hair and add shine while you break the gel cast.

Using a diffuser is another way to release the gel cast. Set your hair dryer to low speed and warm or cool air, then scrunch your hair with the diffuser bowl until the cast is released. Do this only once your hair has finished drying, or it may encourage frizz.

All these methods have one thing in common: they must be performed on fully dry hair. Breaking the cast before your hair is dry will prevent it from serving its frizz-prevention function and can break up the curl clumps. Always keep this as the last step of your routine.

Step-by-Step Guide to Scrunching Out the Gel Cast

Here’s how you can soften your gel cast while maintaining hold.

  1. Start with clean, wet hair.
  2. Apply a leave-in conditioner and/or styling cream of your choice for moisture. Skipping leave-in or cream and only using a gel can result in brittle, dry curls.
  3. Thoroughly apply a gel. The stronger the hold you choose, the stronger the cast will be. Curlsmith In-Shower Style Fixer and Fragrance-Free Strong Hold Gel are the best options for strong hold, followed by the Curl Defining Styling Soufflé.
  4. Apply gel liberally for additional hold.
  5. Style as desired.
  6. Scrunch out excess water and product with a hair towel or T-shirt.
  7. Apply another light glaze of gel if more hold is desired, but gently glide over the curls instead of combing through them, or you may disturb the curl pattern.
  8. Diffuse or air-dry without touching your hair. Touching the hair can prevent the cast from forming. As the hair dries, you will feel it become progressively crunchier.
  9. Once your hair is 100% dry, apply a hair oil to your palms and rub them together. A little goes a long way with oils, so avoid applying too much to prevent your curls from feeling greasy or weighed down. Smooth the oil over your hair and gently scrunch. If you want to retain more hold, which will make your style last longer, avoid scrunching out the entire gel cast.
  10. For more volume, reach underneath your hair and shake out the roots by gently massaging them. You can also do this throughout the day to boost volume at the roots.

How to Choose a Hair Oil to Scrunch Out the Gel Cast

The Curlsmith Bonding Oil is a great option for all hair types when scrunching out the gel cast because it’s lightweight and won’t weigh down the hair or make it look or feel greasy. It contains penetrating and sealing oils such as castor seed oil, apricot kernel oil, and plant esters. Using oil at the end of your routine helps soften the hair, provide shine, and lock in moisture.

Another option is the Frizz Rescue Finishing Serum, which helps create a protective barrier around the hair to defend against humidity and preserve curl definition. It’s especially great for medium to coarse textures or those with very dry hair. This unique blend of sunflower, watermelon, and argan oils nourishes the hair, reducing frizz by 65% for up to 72 hours. It also smooths flyaways, breaks the gel cast, and makes your hair glossy at the end of your routine.

How to Prevent Frizz When Breaking the Cast

Sometimes, despite your best intentions, you may still find some frizz after scrunching out your gel cast. Here are a few common causes:

  • Your gel doesn’t have a strong enough hold. Look for ingredients such as Polyquaternium for maximum hold and humidity protection. In-Shower Style Fixer is the strongest-hold option from Curlsmith, followed by Fragrance-Free Strong Hold Gel, and both contain Polyquaternium-69. If you prefer a softer look, aloe and flaxseed are great film-forming humectants that provide medium or light hold. Curlsmith Styling Soufflé contains both aloe and flaxseed, which provide long-lasting moisture and definition.
  • You scrunched out the crunch while your hair was still damp. Touching your hair while it’s wet can cause frizz. Wait until your hair is completely dry before scrunching out the crunch. After diffusing, let your hair cool down so you can check whether it’s truly dry. Thick curl clumps can take longer to dry, so make sure they aren’t still damp inside.
  • Your curls weren’t moisturized first. Applying gel to very dry hair can cause it to dry out quickly after wash day and frizz up. Using a leave-in conditioner or styling cream as a base layer will ensure your curls are properly moisturized. The gel will then lock in that moisture and provide hold. Incorporating regular deep conditioners into your routine is also necessary to prevent dry hair.
  • Your oil is too heavy. Using heavy oils or butters may cause the gel cast to break up too much when scrunching out the crunch. Instead, use a lightweight oil such as Bonding Oil to soften the hair without causing frizz.

Crunchy Gel Cast Is Nothing to Be Afraid Of

Using a gel is one of the best ways to create defined, frizz-free curls that last longer between washes. Gel often gives curls a very defined, stiff feeling that is essential for frizz protection, but this is only temporary. Finishing with the right hair oil will soften the cast and prevent crunchy, stiff curls. Incorporating these tips will help maintain definition while achieving frizz-free, soft, bouncy curls.

 

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